The celebrations of All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day in Spain are much more varied than in Poland. In Andalusia, you can take part in the “procession of souls,” watch a competition for the most beautiful figurines made of… food, and try roasted chestnuts. Día de Todos los Santos is deeply rooted in the Catholic religion in Spain. In Andalusia, the celebrations take on a local flavor, combining prayerful reflection with family gatherings, and traditional solemnity with humor and a satirical view of life.
What will you read about in this article?
- The Mexican roots of All Saints’ Day in Spain
- Morning ritual at the cemetery and family celebrations
- Los Tosantos, or vegetables and fish heads
- Candles facilitate the journey of souls
- Roasted chestnuts like a lord’s crust
- Celebrating Día de Todos los Santos the American way
The Mexican roots of All Saints’ Day in Spain
The first association with the Spanish language and All Saints’ Day is probably the Mexican Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. It is celebrated on November 2 (although the celebrations begin the day before), which is the same date as in Poland, but it has a completely different character than our All Souls’ Day. We remember the dead in an atmosphere of reflection, while Mexicans do so in a cheerful manner. They dress up in traditional costumes and feast with family and friends.
In Andalusia and generally throughout Spain, the celebrations are not as lavish as in Mexico, but they are definitely more joyful and varied than in Poland. Of course, Spaniards also visit the graves of their loved ones. Interestingly, Spanish cemeteries are dominated not by individual gravestones, but by columbariums – flat walls that house many urns. Secondly, it is not customary to bring candles, but it is common to leave flowers at the grave. However, the celebration does not end with a visit to the cemetery.
Morning ritual at the cemetery and family celebration
November 1st throughout Spain begins with a visit to the cemetery. At dawn, families go to the resting places of their loved ones with colorful bouquets of flowers, mainly chrysanthemums, which in Spanish culture symbolize life and death on the one hand, and memory on the other. The graves are thoroughly cleaned, and the cemeteries are transformed into a sea of flowers and burning candles. The atmosphere is solemn, but not sad – rather warm and respectful. It is a time for remembrance, prayer, and contemplation. To ensure that everyone can participate, the authorities in some cities organize special buses to take residents to cemeteries. It is worth checking this information on the local town hall website.
After the morning ceremonies, families return to their homes or to their campo (a rural estate or cottage outside the city). Here, they light their stoves, prepare traditional dishes, and spend the rest of the day talking and playing games. These gatherings symbolize the true spirit of Todos los Santos: family ties, gratitude for life, and a sense of continuity between generations. It is not a day of mourning, but a joyful celebration of life and family community.
Los Tosantos, or vegetables and fish heads
The most original way of celebrating has taken hold in Cadiz. The largest city markets (Mercado Central and Mercado Virgen del Rosario) display compositions that are somewhat reminiscent of the Christmas nativity scenes known from Polish churches. However, instead of religious figurines, they feature characters created from fragments of food – vegetables and… fish or chicken heads.
This tradition, which originated in Cadiz, is called Los Tosantos, which is short for the Spanish translation of “All Saints’ Day,” or Día de Todos los Santos. Its history dates back to 1876, when the city authorities decided to boost sales at the Central Market (Mercado Central) and organized a ball. Since 1977, traders from the market at Puerta Tierra have been decorating their stalls, creating a competition for the best staging.
Fantastic scenes are constructed from… food products: fish heads, seafood, vegetables, and fruit. They are usually satirical in tone, with jokes about current events or… “silver-tongued” local politicians. The jury evaluates the stalls in the categories of fish, meat, and vegetables and awards prizes. Tosantos is also an attraction for children – some stalls hand out nuts, fruit, and sweets.
Candles facilitate the journey of souls
In the municipality of Begíjar, located in the province of Jaén, the inhabitants believe in the journey of souls. According to an old legend, the souls of the dead return to the world of the living on the night before All Saints’ Day. To facilitate their journey, the inhabitants of the Andalusian pueblo light oil candles in the windows of their homes. They also protect themselves from evil spirits by locking the door with a key made of gachas, a paste made from flour, water, salt, olive oil, and paprika.
Fans of a dark, mysterious atmosphere will enjoy the Día de Todos los Santos celebrations in El Borge, located about 30 kilometers northeast of Malaga. On the evening of October 31, Noche de Ánimas, or Night of Souls, begins there. Its most important part is a procession through the streets of the village, whose participants are dressed in characteristic white robes. They wear hoods on their heads and carry candles in their hands. In this way, they refer to the centuries-old legend of Santa Compaña – a procession of souls, whose arrival was supposed to mean the imminent death of one of the inhabitants of the haunted village. The procession starts about half an hour before midnight.
See also:
- Surprising Christmas traditions in Spain
- Learn interesting facts about Christmas in Spain
- Noche de San Juan, or the unique Midsummer Night on the Costa del Sol
Roasted chestnuts like a lord’s crust
We travel a little north of Andalusia, to Extremadura, specifically to the city of Cáceres. There, the delicacy associated with Día de Todos los Santos and Día de los Muertos is roasted chestnuts. They were first prepared by local altar boys who wanted to warm up and eat something when they rang the bells early in the morning on November 2, calling the residents to the cemetery. Chestnuts have become a snack associated with these holidays throughout Spain. You could say that on the Iberian Peninsula, they are the equivalent of our roasted chestnuts. The traditional Spanish name for this delicacy is calbote. The same name is given to the fiesta organized on November 1 in Cáceres.
In addition to chestnuts, the following are traditionally eaten:
Huesos de santo – traditional Spanish sweets eaten on November 1. Their name, which literally means “saints’ bones,” refers to their characteristic appearance: white, oblong marzipan tubes that resemble bones, with a yellow, thick filling symbolizing bone marrow. The filling is made from egg yolk cream, and the whole thing has a sweet, almond and egg flavor. The traditional recipe for huesos de santo describes in detail the process of preparing marzipan and cream, and the sweets themselves are considered a symbolic way of commemorating deceased loved ones in Spanish culture.
Buñuelos de viento are light, fluffy doughnuts fried in deep oil, which increases their volume – hence their name, literally “wind doughnuts.” They are sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon, and often filled with cream, chocolate, or whipped cream. According to an old legend, each buñuelo eaten frees one soul from purgatory, which gives this dessert its symbolic meaning. The tradition of preparing them during this period has been confirmed in Spanish chronicles since the 17th century and is still alive in many regions of Spain today.
Gachas/poleá – a thick porridge resembling Polish semolina, made from flour, milk, and sugar, flavored with lemon, cinnamon, or anise. In the past, it was a simple peasant dish, prepared in times of scarcity, especially in southern Spain. In Andalusia, poleá is a traditional dessert eaten on All Saints’ Day, symbolizing community and remembrance of ancestors. Its roots date back to the Middle Ages, and recipes for similar dishes appear in 13th-century Arabic cookbooks. Gachas or poleá remain one of the most characteristic examples of Andalusian folk cuisine, cherished to this day.
Speaking of treats, in Andalusia, as in the rest of Europe, children eagerly embrace American traditions. On the first and second of November, they go around neighboring houses and apartments dressed in Halloween costumes. In the municipality of El Ronquillo, not far from Seville, an Andalusian version of the game from across the ocean is cultivated – Cachetí.
Children recite a special rhyme when asking for sweets. They “threaten” that if they don’t get any treats, they will “stay for the whole day” in the inhospitable household (Cachetía, tía, tía, como no me dé una castaña, me quedo aquí 'to’ el día.). Neighbors give them candy, but also local delicacies: raisins, almonds, or the aforementioned roasted chestnuts.
Collecting sweets has also become popular in the town of Fuente de Piedra near Antequera, where this custom is called La Ureña. It was not borrowed from America, but from local altar boys who knocked on doors and asked to be given food, not necessarily sweet.
Celebrating Día de Todos los Santos in the American style
Maro is a small town located right next to the very popular tourist destination of Nerja. The combination of its name and the word Halloween gave rise to the term used to describe the local celebrations on the night of October 31 to November 1 – Maroween. Many elements of this holiday have been transferred to Maro from America, such as the best costume contest and decorating houses. The main difference concerns gastronomy – the focus (and most of the delicacies) is not on pumpkins, but on chestnuts.
In the capital of Andalusia, Seville, specifically in the Santa Cruz district, on All Saints’ Eve, the streets are filled with people dressed as Don Juan Tenorio, the title character of José Zorrilla’s 19th-century drama. The play itself is staged on this day in many Seville theaters. Why this one? The final act of the drama takes place on All Saints’ Eve in Seville. In addition, the plot is full of religious and fantastical themes.
Apart from secular elements, Todos los Santos retains its deeply religious character. Memorial masses for the dead are held in churches, and the faithful pray for their salvation. The next day, November 2, is Día de los Fieles Difuntos (All Souls’ Day) – dedicated to the souls who have not yet reached heaven. Together, these two days form a spiritual whole: the first honors the saints, the second – the dead.
The Costa del Sol is not known for particularly intense or original celebrations of Día de Todos los Santos. Here, the best way to get a feel for the Andalusian version of these holidays is to try roasted chestnuts, which are sold on the streets of Malaga and Marbella at this time. You can also celebrate in American style by having fun at a Halloween party in one of the nice
