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    29 Aug 2025

    Welles and Hemingway fell in love with Ronda, and now it’s your turn….

    For tourists
    Welles and Hemingway fell in love with Ronda, and now it’s your turn….

    Ronda is one of the most impressive cities in Andalusia. Located in the northwest of the province of Malaga, it is the perfect destination for a day trip from the Costa del Sol. See why it’s worth a visit.

    Since Roman times

    Ronda is the capital of the Serranía de Ronda region. The history of Ronda dates back to Roman times, when Arunda was founded on the foundations of Iberian settlements. The Visigoths preserved its role, and then the Muslims transformed Ronda into the capital of the region, strengthening its strategic importance. Its convenient location facilitated the defense of the city and control of the routes leading to Lower Andalusia, while the fertile land was conducive to the development of agriculture.

    The city lies on a rocky plateau at an altitude of 723 m above sea level, cut by the Tajo de Ronda gorge, carved by the Guadalevín River, a tributary of the Guadiaro. The gorge, towered over by historic buildings, gives Ronda its characteristic, picturesque appearance. Thanks to its unique landscapes, rich history, diversity of monuments, and proximity to popular tourist destinations on the Costa del Sol, Ronda has become a popular travel destination. Nearby attractions include the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, the Genal Valley, the Sierra de Grazalema, and flatter terrain to the north.

    Before you set off on a walk around Ronda, it is worth getting some comfortable shoes. The city stretches along the steep slopes of a gorge, which means that you will often be climbing up and down. Don’t worry about getting tired, though, as every few steps you will be stopped by breathtaking views.

    A place to fall in love

    Ronda is one of the most romantic cities in Spain. Cut in two by the impressive Tajo de Ronda gorge, it evokes both awe and excitement. The old town of Ronda, perfectly preserved over the centuries, attracts lovers and those who appreciate a moment of reflection and breathtaking views.

    The charm of the city has inspired artists and writers such as Victor Hugo, Orson Welles, and Ernest Hemingway. Ronda’s history dates back to the Iberians, Celts, Greeks, Carthaginians, Arabs and Berbers, and each of these civilizations has left its mark, visible today in the picturesque districts: the Arab La Ciudad, the Christian El Mercadillo and the historic San Francisco.

    Ronda has a rich history dating back to prehistoric times, when Neolithic remains and rock paintings were found in the La Pileta cave. Although the beginnings of settlement in this place date back to the 6th century BC and are associated with the Celts, the city only gained importance after the Roman conquest, who made it an important strategic point.

    After the Muslim invasion in 711, the town, then known as Izn-Rand Onda, became the capital of the province of Takurunna and later, after the collapse of the Caliphate of Cordoba, the capital of the Taifa of Ronda. After 1485, following the conquest of the city by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, Ronda experienced a period of reconstruction and development. In modern times, the city faced difficulties, such as the effects of the Napoleonic invasion, but also developed its economic and cultural importance.

    Orson Welles fell in love with Ronda and later found his final resting place here. Ernest Hemingway, in turn, described his impressions of Ronda as follows: “The whole city, as far as the eye can see, is nothing but a romantic theater backdrop.” In his novel “For Whom the Bell Tolls,” he recounted the events of the Spanish Civil War, when Republicans threw supporters of nationalism into the El Tajo gorge. To this day, the promenade with its stunning panoramic views bears his name: Paseo de Ernest Hemingway.

    The old town of Ronda is surrounded by solid defensive walls with two historic gates: the 13th-century Puerta de Almocábar and the 16th-century Puerta de Carlos V. The architecture of the old town still shows the influence of Islamic art, although the Renaissance style is more dominant today.

    Puente Nuevo over the Guadalevín River gorge

    This is an outstanding example of 18th-century engineering. It is almost 100 meters high and consists of massive pillars with a double arch in the center and a single arch on each side. The bridge was not only used to transport residents from one part of the city to another. Above the upper central arch, you can see a window. The room integrated into the structure reinforces the bridge and once served as a prison from which escape was impossible.

    The history of Puente Nuevo is as fascinating as it is dramatic. The first version of the bridge, completed in 1735 after only eight months of construction, collapsed after six years, killing about 50 people. The reconstruction took 42 years!

    Puente Nuevo is also a great place to take photos – both of the bridge itself and of the houses suspended on the rocks (Spanish: casas colgadas). Those who want to see the bridge from a different perspective can go to the Water Mine, where you can admire its majesty from the bottom of the gorge.

    Puente Viejo and Puente Árabe

    It is also worth going down to the old bridge, which dates back to Arab times and was later rebuilt by Christians. Puente Viejo is the smallest of the bridges in Ronda, measuring 120 meters long, 10 meters wide, and 31 meters high.

    Although the exact date of its construction remains unknown, historians debate whether the bridge was built during the Roman or Arab rule. It is most commonly believed that it was erected during the Muslim domination and underwent several significant modifications after the Reconquista. Today, Puente Viejo serves as a pedestrian bridge and is a charming place for walks.

    It is from Puente Viejo that you will see spectacular views of the city from a different perspective. On the other side, you can walk through the gardens towards the new bridge, admiring the charming surroundings.

    Puente Árabe – although commonly referred to as the Roman Bridge – its connection to Roman times is only symbolic. Where the current bridge stands, there was indeed a structure built by the Romans, which was once the only crossing point through the gorge.

    The current bridge was built during the Arab period, but repeated renovations and modernizations have blurred its original character. Therefore, despite its name, today’s Puente Árabe does not bear any clear features of either Arab or Roman architecture.

    Palacio Mondragon and Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra

    The Mondragón Palace (Palacio del Marqués de Villasierra) is a beautiful and very interesting noble palace in the Mudéjar style, a Christian and Moorish architectural mixture. According to legend, the Moorish king Abbel Malik lived here. Inside, you can admire the unique architecture as well as the collections of the Ronda Historical and Archaeological Museum. Originally built in 1314 as the residence of an Arab ruler, the Mondragón Palace was converted into a Renaissance mansion with Mudéjar elements after the Reconquista.

    Today, the palace houses the Archaeological Museum, but the greatest treasure of this place is the picturesque garden, situated on a rocky terrace. From there, spectacular views unfold, attracting both tourists and locals. It is also a favorite place for Spaniards for wedding sessions and special occasion photographs.

    The historic Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra is worth seeing, even if only from the outside. Its Baroque façade, with a wide balcony supported by Corinthian columns, is particularly noteworthy. Above it are unusual sculptures of four figures: two men and two women. Their appearance refers to traditional Inca art. Above, you can see the Salvatierra family coat of arms, which adds an aristocratic character to the façade.

    Casa Don Bosco, Casa del Rey Moro and the Water Mine

    If you want to see a typical Andalusian house with an inner courtyard and a small but charming garden, Casa Don Bosco is worth a visit. In the garden, you will find a small balcony with amazing views of the gorge and the bridge.

    It is located in the heart of the Old Town, not far from the Tajo de Ronda gorge. This modernist palace from the early 20th century, which once belonged to the Granada family, is surrounded by a charming Arabic-style garden decorated with characteristic ceramic mosaics. The garden balconies offer spectacular views of the surrounding area. Inside the palace, you can see a collection of 20th-century tapestries and antique furniture.

    A visit to the Casa del Rey Moro, also known as the Palacio del Rey Moro, is a challenge for those in good physical condition. In addition to the historic palace itself, there is another unique attraction here – the Water Mine (La Mina de Agua). In the 14th century, on the orders of a Moorish ruler, it was carved out of the rock, creating stairs leading to the bottom of the gorge. Tourists have to climb about 300 steps down and the same number up – this is the only way to visit this unusual building.

    Plaza de Toros, or the Bullring

    This is the oldest preserved and one of the most famous bullrings in Spain. It was built at the end of the 18th century. It has the largest diameter – 66 meters (the standard is 60 meters). The arena is surrounded by two floors of arcades with Tuscan columns, behind which there are covered stands that can seat about 5,000 spectators.

    This is a special place for bullfighting enthusiasts. Ronda is the birthplace of Pedro Romero, who created the modern rules of this spectacle, which are still in force today. Bullfighting at the local plaza de toros was immortalized in his engravings by the great Spanish painter Francisco de Goya. The only bullfights in this arena take place in September and refer to the traditions of Francisco de Goya’s era. During your visit, it is worth entering the Bullfighting Museum to see the equestrian exhibition and the history room of the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda.

    You can also explore the nooks and crannies of the arena and see where the bulls are selected and where they stay on the day of the bullfight. There are unique exhibits, such as posters announcing past shows, press clippings, matador costumes, weapons used during fights, as well as works of art inspired by the theme of bullfighting, including paintings and sketches by Francisco de Goya.

    If you want a fully Andalusian experience, it is also worth visiting Reserva Tauro. Andalusian horses live there, and it is owned by a former bullfighter, Rafael Tejada. The tour is guided. Reserva Tauro is located about a 10-minute drive from Ronda, and advance booking is required to visit.

    What else is Ronda famous for?

    Arab baths (Baños árabes)

    The Arab baths in Ronda are among the best preserved of their kind on the Iberian Peninsula. They were built in the 13th or 14th century and are divided into three main areas: cold, warm, and hot water. Their hydraulic system has been preserved in almost perfect condition, making them a unique testimony to the ancient technology and Muslim culture of the region.

    Museo del Bandolero (Bandit Museum)

    This museum, unique in Spain, is dedicated to the former Andalusian bandits. In the Museo del Bandolero, you can admire an impressive collection of over 1,300 exhibits. Among them you will find newspaper articles, books, weapons, old documents, costumes, photographs, watercolors, comics, films, and many other items that bring the history and culture of bandits to life.

    Casa Palacio Museo Lara

    This private museum was founded by Juan Antonio Lara Jurado, who devoted his life to creating his unique collection. The museum houses clocks and weapons from the 18th and 19th centuries, old research instruments, exhibits related to cinema and photography, and an intriguing exhibition dedicated to the Inquisition and witches. The museum is located in a historic mansion in the old part of Ronda.

    Museo de Ronda

    Those interested in the history of the city should definitely visit the Museo de Ronda, which offers an overview of the region’s history from prehistoric times. The permanent exhibition includes archaeological collections, models, and historical data, presented in an unusual way.

    LA Almazara

    One of Ronda’s architectural gems, designed in a modern style, is LA Almazara. According to its designer, Philippe Starck, it is a wonderful place where visitors can experience an almost ascetic form. At the same time, the building is also… the world’s first olive oil museum.

    Santa Maria la Mayor – Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary

    A mosque once stood on the site of the present church. We enter through the former minaret (the tower of the mosque from which the muezzin called the faithful to prayer) and on the left we see the horseshoe arch of the mihrab from the Moorish period (mihrab is a niche in the prayer hall that indicates the direction of Mecca, where the faithful should pray). The facade of the church is unusual, built after the earthquake that struck the city in 1580. The lower storey is decorated with high arches, and above it is a two-storey loggia.

    The church was built in the Gothic style at the end of the 15th century, but after the earthquake it was rebuilt in the Renaissance style. This is visible on the vault, and in its center you will discover a beautiful choir. According to Spanish tradition, in cathedrals and important churches, the choir is located between the main entrance and the altar. The majestic main altar is worth seeing. The beautiful sacristy is also worth a visit.

    The streets of Ronda, as well as the square in front of the church, are decorated with orange trees. At the turn of March and April, when they bloom, an amazing scent fills the air. In December, the fruits ripen and remain a beautiful decoration for the following months. These are bitter oranges, brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Moors, which is why no one picks them. They can be recognized by their leaves, which have small stipules.

    Sacred monuments of Ronda

    The city also has many other sacred monuments, including:

    • Iglesia de Santa María La Mayor: built on the ruins of a 14th-century mosque and a former Roman temple. It is located in the charming Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, which is also worth seeing.
    • Iglesia de Padre Jesús: built around the 15th century. It is unofficially believed to be the first Christian building of its kind in Ronda.
    • Iglesia del Espíritu Santo: built in the 15th century on the ruins of a former mosque.
    • Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced: a 16th-century church located in Plaza de la Merced, near the Alameda del Tajo gardens.
    • Ermita Rupestre de la Virgen de la Cabeza (also known as Cuevas de San Antón): built around the 9th-10th century.

    Spanish delicacies and wines

    Next to the bullring is the Catalonia Ronda hotel, which has a bar on the top floor with breathtaking views of the bullring and the mountains. It is worth stopping by for a coffee or a glass of wine. We recommend enjoying tapas and local specialties at La Taberna bar on Plaza de Socorro. It is very popular with locals, so be sure to arrive before 2 p.m. to find a seat.

    While in Ronda, you must try oxtail (rabo de toro) or pork cheek stew (carrillada de cerdo). If you fancy lunch in a “typical” restaurant with posters and photographs of bullfighters and bull heads on the walls, head to Pedro Romero, just opposite the bullring. The specialty is, of course, bull’s tail.

    Wine lovers will definitely visit Descalzos Viejos. The entire estate covers an area of 16 hectares and is surrounded by the beautiful Guadalevin River gorge. At the highest point is a winery housed in a 16th-century Trinitarian monastery. Behind the building is a beautiful garden with fruit trees and a water source. The vineyard is located in the lower part of the estate, among old olive trees and Mediterranean oaks. We recommend a tour offered by the owners, which ends, of course, with a tasting. Advance booking is required.